Just Getting Started

When I was a freshman in college, I looked up the Mandarin equivalent of “thank you” for an ill-conceived experiment communicating with restaurant staff while picking up Chinese takeout. In return I received a look of bewilderment, then a smile, and finally a barrage of unintelligible sound that I’m going to guess was an interrogative of some kind. I hadn’t thought that far ahead. I certainly didn’t anticipate I would one day sit down to reflect on several years of daily study and look forward to those that lay ahead. In the same vein, it was a good number of years into my addiction to anime before I began to think about trying to follow along without subtitles, ultimately traveling to Japan to get a closer look at the reality behind the narrow focus and stylized depictions of its pop culture.

These are not my first experiences with second languages. I studied Spanish in high school. Though I enjoyed it, I had no native Spanish speaking friends and didn’t see the language fitting into my other interests and plans at that time. I stopped once I had met my credit requirements. For me, it was challenging to sustain interest and momentum without a compelling hook to anchor my efforts.

In college I took up Italian, which was a good complement with my family heritage and classical music training. I spent a summer in Italy playing in an opera orchestra and taking language instruction. I was far from cosmopolitan centers, so the locals spoke little or no English, which was a great immersion experience. Most famously, I wandered around Urbania a few days before my departure, asking merchants if I could dig through their garbage. Confusion was dispelled when I explained I needed packing material to pad the bottles of wine I was mailing back to myself. I think I learned as much or more by becoming part of the community than from the many hours of formal study. I returned to the US determined to maintain that progress, but was discouraged by the drop in learning speed in the absence of constant exposure. I ultimately ended this study as well, though I had uncovered another piece of the necessary support system. Drive could only go so far without the environment for learning.

I think language is a crucial component of understanding a culture. Each influences and, in turn, is influenced by the other. It is this notion that serves as a backstop to my current endeavors and keeps me coming back each day for more. My wife Min is Chinese. She and one of her cousins are the only members of their extended family to have lived and worked outside of China. Bridging the cultural gap between me and them, or even beginning to understand what it means to be Chinese, is a journey that probably won’t have a defined end, but most of the lessons to be learned along the way would likely be lost on me if I did not have the ability to communicate in their language. It’s also really difficult to order tasty food when you can’t read the menu.

My entry point to Japanese via cartoons was somewhat less profound, but that fascination and enjoyment was what led me to track down the real people, places, and things that inspired their two-dimensional counterparts. I started reading (translated) work by contemporary Japanese writers, following news, and when presented with the opportunity, traveled to Japan to live and study for a short period of time. Friends were made. Broken Japanese was spoken. Trains were taken. Ramen was eaten. Although I absorbed much in the few months I was there, in the long run I had only just scratched the surface. As with China, I can spend the rest of my life studying the business, culture, and language and still not fully understand everything I see and hear. But so long as I can learn one thing tomorrow that I didn’t know today, I’ll consider it time well spent.

Staying interested has been the easy part. Where I’ve had to take deliberate measures has been in locating and choosing tools for learning, and creating opportunities for exposure in lieu of total immersion. In these respects, I have had more success with Mandarin than Japanese, but I’m in the process of making adjustments to both.

I started Mandarin studies with the Pimsleur method audio lessons. It was a good way to get acquainted with the sounds of the language without the distraction of writing and explicit grammar study, but after a few cycles through I needed to move on to broader and more challenging content. I had picked up a few textbooks and located some web-based materials, but the inert nature of the books and scattershot content of the websites made them difficult to utilize. There were opportunities to take formal classes at universities and community organizations, but the physical location and schedule constraints never quite seemed to work with my existing obligations. Discovering ChinesePod was the breakthrough that addressed many of these hurdles. While not a complete solution (which the service candidly notes), it was the wellspring of content and engagement that I needed to really start moving forward. It consists of language teaching podcasts centered around topic areas and stresses the use of contemporary language (as opposed to wooden, antiquated textbook models). The shows are complemented with online study materials and exercises specific to each lesson, as well as a growing collection of general tools and resources. I have been using ChinesePod regularly since the fall of 2009, in which time I’ve worked through 1,281 podcasts. That number includes the entirety of the “Newbie” and “Elementary” libraries, the first two of five difficulty levels, which I just recently cleared.

Now that I’m squarely in the midst of “Intermediate” lessons, I need to address learning gaps in order to push my Mandarin to be more functional. ChinesePod’s standard service, which includes the podcasts and study materials, is a great tool for listening comprehension and character recognition. The discussions, both in the podcast and on the chat boards, are engaging and frequently dip into cultural background and current events behind the language. As the creators acknowledge, ChinesePod’s strength is in providing exposure and context to the language, but it’s not meant to replace other methods and tools. For instance, it doesn’t offer a structured approach to learning grammar and doesn’t include conversational speaking unless you opt for additional Skype-based individual instruction. Handwriting practice (which I’ve chosen not to pursue at this time) is enabled through the site’s partnership with Skritter, but isn’t the main focus. For me to get a more solid foundation in the language structure, those textbooks will ultimately need to reappear, though this time I ought to have a much better idea of what to do with them. I got a jump start in speaking practice while Min’s parents lived with us last year. Now that they’ve returned to China I’ve slipped back to a bad habit of passing up opportunities to speak with Min because it’s still far quicker and easier to use English. It is frustrating to try expressing an adult thought with a limited vocabulary, but I’m going to have to get used to stretching if I want to improve.

Japanese has been more of a mishmash of source material, ranging from phrasebooks to audio lessons and websites of varying quality. I have yet to come across a comparable site to ChinesePod for learning Japanese (hint hint, Praxis Language). Initially, I had only planned to learn basic conversational spoken Japanese, but found that these resources were even insufficient for that. Now I’m evaluating where to go next in search of learning opportunities, but also stepping back to rethink through what I want to ultimately achieve. I decided that it wouldn’t be too much of a stretch to add Japanese reading, as it borrows much of its writing system from Chinese. More importantly, I thought about my already deep interest in Japanese culture and plans to incorporate study of its approaches to infrastructure and urbanization into my long-term professional trajectory, and came to the realization that I’m going to have to take my speaking well beyond “please”, “thank you”, and “give me ramen with all of the toppings” if I truly want to immerse myself in these areas. Looks like I have some work to do.

Learning second languages as an adult has taught me a great deal about the process of learning, helped me understand my own strengths and weaknesses with regard to absorbing new information, and caused me to question behavior I observe in other realms. In my current work environment, I’m frequently expected to become an instant expert in tasks I’m taking on for the first time, execute quickly, and make no mistakes. This would be an absolutely disastrous approach to language study (and I have my doubts as to whether it’s a reasonable or valuable in any context). I work to make my Chinese and Japanese study efficient, so as to fill my available time with as much exposure as possible, but there is no substitute for consistent, applied practice (with ample allowance for experimentation and mistakes) over long periods of time. In this path, results do not come rapidly, make themselves apparent only in subtle ways, and often involve a bit of stumbling before getting a solid footing. It is not for the impatient or perfectionist. I’ll look back in 10, 20, and 30 years and be glad that I was neither.

Recent Rundown 2

Happy new year! Other than coverage of the Mitsuwa Marketplace Umaimono Food Fair, it’s been radio silent since the first Recent Rundown in November. Here’s a quick catchup to get us off on the right foot for 2012.

Corporate Eco Forum

We put on a webinar for our member companies featuring Gavin Neath, Unilever’s Senior Vice President of Sustainability. Gavin spoke about the company’s efforts to address sustainability challenges across its global footprint, including its commitment on procurement of sustainable palm oil. I also started preparations for the first handful of webinars for 2012, which include presentations on the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and ISO 50001 certification. We hosted a virtual roundtable for a small group of our members to discuss the state of corporate sustainability reporting. We launched the application period for our 2012 CEF Member Challenge: Journey to Camp 41 in Brazil’s Amazon Rainforest. CEF will sponsor 5 winning employees from CEF member companies to attend an all-expenses paid sustainability leadership development program in Brazil’s Amazon Rainforest led by ecologist Thomas E. Lovejoy.

Compass Yoga

Our nonprofit is nearing completion of all its legal filings and approvals, thanks to the tireless efforts of founder and friend Christa. While we wait, we continue to explore opportunities for the organization to deliver yoga classes in therapeutic settings. We launched the Compass Yoga YouTube channel and produced some simple but helpful instructional videos as a holiday gift to the veteran community. I had fun getting familiar with the video capabilities of my Lumix LX5, but think we’ll want to get editing software that can render in high definition formats once we start looking to produce more sophisticated material. I also stepped into the role of treasurer for the board.

Net Impact Service Corps

After a bit of trouble getting things together, all of our volunteer consulting engagements are now off and running.

Languages

I’m coming up on inflection points with both Mandarin Chinese and Japanese study. I’m about to finish stages for both that will require some decisions about what goals I must set next and how each will be approached. I’ll go into detail in an upcoming post, once I’ve hit the milestones.

Tabata Noodle

Min, Mei and I made it out to a new ramen shop in Midtown on what was a very, very cold day (no better setup for enjoying a big bowl of noodle soup). Tabata Noodle tries to cover many bases, with an extensive selection of ramen varieties. Ramen shops are generally “I-shaped”. They specialize in one type of soup only (or a family of related broths) and develop deep expertise. We got the feeling Tabata spreads itself thin by trying to offer every type of ramen imaginable, based on tastings of shio (salt) and shoyu (soy sauce) bowls that, while not half bad, don’t have the depth and character that make a great slurping experience. I’ll definitely be back to try some of their other offerings, but Minca/Kambi, Ippudo and Hide-chan remain uncontested as my default destinations for transcendental noodling.

Writing

Last, but certainly not least, I’m happy to report that as the baby is finally sleeping through the night (or almost all night) on a relatively consistent basis, it’s my intention for 2012 to get back in the habit of writing more regularly on this blog. After becoming a new dad and starting a new job, I had to back burner interests and projects that didn’t fit into the time available. As we all learned how to work with our new schedule, I’ve gradually reinserted outside obligations, language study and reading. Writing was one of the things I had missed the most, but also proved to be the most challenging to bring back into the fold. It was not just a question of time, but of needing to relearn how to focus and quiet my mind long enough to put together thoughts that spanned more than 140 characters. The photo posts I published over the last handful of months helped me tread water, but I’m looking forward to chewing on things more thoroughly. I’ll experiment with using this rundown format as a way to report progress with ongoing projects or news that doesn’t quite merit a whole post.

Umaimono Food Fair Fall 2011

Another month has flown by, and we were back at the Edgewater Mitsuwa for the Umaimono Food Fair. The featured ramen guest was Nakamuraya, from Ebina in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan. Chef Sean Nakamura is also the force behind Ramen California in Torrance and just opened Ikemen, a tsukemen (dipping ramen) shop in Los Angeles.


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As we were a bit early out of the gate, we perused the other goodies up for offer while we waited for the ramen to open for orders. Here are some sort of griddle cakes made from rice dough, with red bean filling.

Konnyaku cake

Croquettes

Onigiri (rice balls)

Onigiri building station

Sweets

We tried a new tactic this time: getting in line early, before the window opens.

Good thing we did! This was the last day of the fair, and Nakamuraya posted a note saying there was only enough material left for 200 bowls.

For the fair, Nakamuraya served up an unadulterated shio (salt flavor) ramen.  The broth was remarkably deep, with layers of fish and seaweed flavor riding under the chicken bones and salt. The toppings were (for a mass event like this) generous and lovingly prepared. The juicy grilled chashu and seasoned hanjuku egg were better than I’ve had at many local places!

One of my first orders of business when I traveled to Japan for the first time was to experience true (not freeze dried brick form) ramen. The neophyte I was at the time, I initially gravitated to food which more closely resembled my western expectations. In this case, shio ramen came across like an exotic version of chicken noodle soup. I’d later get more adventurous and branch out to shoyu (soy sauce) ramen (the dominant flavor in Tokyo), tonkotsu (heavy, pork bone based broth), and other, less prevalent sub-styles and niches. No matter how far afield I go, though, I still enjoy a simple shio. Decadent, heavy flavored ramen packs punches with endless combinations of fats, flavors, and aromatics. In that realm, the creativity of the chef is the only limit to what’s possible. But I also think that working within a few constraints and being able to make a great, unassuming chicken noodle soup (in Japan or elsewhere) is a sign of a chef worth his salt.

Previous Mitsuwa festivals:

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2011

Umaimono Food Fair Spring 2011

Umaimono Food Fair Fall 2010

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2010

Recent Rundown

So, true to my word, it’s been a daunting challenge to carve out time for blogging in the recent few months! I still plan to write up the really good stuff as able (a report from the recent Mitsuwa food fair is in the works). I also wanted to find a way to capture other goings on, so as not to leave readers (and myself) with a case of attention-deficit whiplash. As a first experiment, I’ll try my best to summarize the highlights of intervening time between these “update” posts, linking to any additional media that help flesh out the stories.

Corporate Eco Forum

After a busy but manageable summer, CEF activity has kicked into high gear for the fall. We spent a lot of time on preparations for our first event hosted in India (happening now). I took over full editing responsibility for our Weekly Eco Briefing in order to free up our rockstar intern George Haddad for projects dealing more closely with member companies. We put on a webinar for member companies featuring Jib Ellison, Founder and CEO of boutique sustainability consulting firm Blu Skye.

New York Comic Con and Anime Festival

I soaked up everything at the 2011 New York Comic Con and Anime Festival. I really enjoyed the panel discussions featuring artists and producers involved in the creation and marketing of anime, particularly Roland Kelts‘ interview with Makoto Shinkai. I highly recommend Shinkai-san’s very moving films. I was able to catch up with Kelts later for a quick chat on the show floor. Here is my photoset from the event: http://www.flickr.com/photos/michaelvito/sets/72157627911074798/

Survival Skills

My wife Min took her first business trip since our daughter Mei was born. Correspondingly, this was the first time your writer was charged with taking care of an 8 month old for more than half an hour unsupervised. We all lived to tell the tale.

Net Impact Service Corps

Though turnout was lower than we had anticipated for this fall’s volunteer nonprofit consulting term, we are trying to make sure the dedicated few who are participating have engaging and rewarding experiences with their projects. We will reevaluate how we go about developing the nonprofit pipeline and marketing to volunteers and get a head start on preparations for next spring’s term.

Compass Yoga

My friend Christa’s nonprofit organization Compass Yoga is beginning to take wing. The other board members and I have reviewed and signed off on our by-laws, and were informed at a meeting with our a lawyers that we received official notice granting our incorporation.

Ramen Misoya

To celebrate the good news, after the meeting we trekked over to Ramen Misoya in the East Village, one of several ramen shops to have popped up in the recent few months. The ramen-ya serves up three types of miso ramen, though we went with the flagship Hokkaido style. The basic bowl comes already decked out with plenty of toppings, but I went for the gusto with a chashu-men (roasted pork) version. I tend to lean heavily toward shio (salt) and tonkatsu (cloudly pork broth) ramen, but it was clear a lot of effort went into this bowl and I was not disappointed.

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2011

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What’s worth trekking to a grocery store an hour away from home, only to wait in a line for the better part of another hour? Not much. But ramen and other tasty offerings from Japan-based shops touring Mitsuwa Marketplace locations around the US for two weeks is one of them. Though there is much to see and eat, ramen seems to be the undisputed favorite among attendees at all of the various Mitsuwa food festivals, as evidenced by the line out the door.


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Finally, inside!

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Closer.

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Noodles ordered. Like last year’s Hokkaido Food Fair at the Edgewater, NJ location, the featured shop serves up miso ramen, a specialty of Japan’s northernmost island.

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Perusing goodies while we wait.

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Squid filled with rice.

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Fish and crabs.

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We get down to some slurping. Compared with last year’s miso ramen from Shingen, Kagetora has a similarly rich but not overwhelmingly heavy broth. Miso ramen can be hideously over-saturated with grease. Unlike Shingen, however, I felt there was less attention to the quality of the toppings. The chashu was a bit tough and not as flavorful as Shingen’s rolled and marinated pork belly. Everything seems “thrown on top” as opposed to carefully arranged, though given the immense crowd of waiting customers I can’t argue with sacrifice of aesthetics in the name of efficiency. Overall, still a very high quality bowl and a fun, infrequent experience around these parts.

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Mei was not as excited about the ramen.

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Previous Mitsuwa festivals:

Umaimono Food Fair Spring 2011

Umaimono Food Fair Fall 2010

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2010

Noodle Meditation

You might have noticed that things have again slowed down a bit at the blog. In August my in-laws returned home to China, so Min and I have moved fully into new parenthood, resuming all of the household matters like cooking and cleaning, as well as a raft of baby-related tasks. We think it’s important, though, not to treat these things like work, but to enjoy the opportunities to serve each other, as the time remaining after all of this is done and professional obligations are fulfilled is surprisingly little. I’ve also made commitments to the organization of the New York City / New Jersey Net Impact Service Corps and my very first nonprofit board membership with Compass Yoga, an organization conceived by my friend Christa that will bring the benefits of yoga practice to nontraditional and under-served communities. All of these are very meaningful to me, so I make great effort to protect the time and energy that goes into each. Unfortunately, this also means that my own professional and educational pursuits outside my formal job and personal hobbies currently reside lowest in the pecking order.

I’m certain that with time and creative scheduling these things will eventually weave back into the fold. I’ve already locked in 30 minutes a day each for Mandarin and Japanese study. I may not make much in the way of dramatic improvement, but can at least keep the wheels well-oiled. I’m also mindful to maintain small indulgences, squeezing in episode of anime over lunch or before sleeping, when there is time. I’ve also continued to push interesting things I find through the course of work or news scanning to my Twitter feed, and have noticed that the longer I’ve been active and more focused my posts, the greater the interactivity with other users. Until another significant shift in the balance of things (e.g., my daughter stops waking up four times a night), blogging may have to remain resigned to an as-able basis, will be more photo-centric and text-light, books will just have to wait a while before they are read, and social outings will be largely contingent on whether they can be snuggled into the couple of hours in between naptimes.

Trying to shoehorn everything into nooks just so can lead to frustration, especially when unexpected disruptions upend thoughtfully crafted plans. One thing being a parent has taught me already is to get flexible, as if your life depended on it (which it may). Plans may not happen according to the original schedule and sequencing, but can still happen if you think quickly.

Another effect of hyper-scheduling, whether you have children or not, is a loss of down time. I’ve become more acutely aware of the negative effect this has had on my energy level, especially in the last couple of months. My solution has been to take experiences that, in the past, might have been rather ordinary, but approach them with the expectation that they could be much more than what they appear. Opportunities to decompress and find nuggets of zen can pop up in unexpected places. I offer my ramen shop meditation, recently realized on a stop at Kambi in the East Village:

Contemplate the char on the gyoza. Too little would leave the dumpling plain and lacking its satisfying crunch. Too much would make it bitter and burnt. Deft application of heat results in a crispness and essence of carbon that can be equally appreciated on the bottom of a great slice of pizza.

I always like sitting at the bar, which gives the best view to the work that goes into one’s bowl. Despite having filled ramen orders likely numbering into the tens of thousands, the chef still uses a digital timer to boil the noodles. The precision is that important and shortcuts would never do. Also important is the shake at the end, to drain water out of the noodle basket. Every chef does this differently, some insisting that particular flares, flicks, and rolls are absolutely essential to the taste and texture of the final product.

Into the bowl first goes tare, the concentrated base, followed by soup stock, noodles and carefully arranged toppings of seasoned egg, green onion, wood ear mushrooms, roasted pork belly, nori, and sesame seeds. Layer by layer, a balanced ecosystem of flavors and textures comes into being. My own mind is noisy and messy. When I submerge my thoughts in the bowl I find quiet, if only for a little while, and that makes me happy. Itadakimasu.

Train Culture: Starting Young

South Orange train station

I had always intended to revisit the idea initially captured in the Train Culture post from January. A little over a month ago the post kicked up a spike of momentum in social media networks and was featured on the WordPress.com homepage. The avalanche of thoughtful comments, not to mention making several new friends and receiving an unbelievably flattering review from Roger DuPuis of Trams Stop Here!, was unexpected confirmation that I had stumbled over something that resonated with more than a few out there, and that it was about time I pick up where I left off.

In a nutshell: the lifestyle shaping and community forming aspects of train networks seem often to be overlooked in US national and regional level discussions on infrastructure planning. Without diminishing the importance of financial viability, particularly given the current state of the economy, I think that not giving such short shrift to experiences of end users (current and potential) would add a deeper perspective and go a long way in changing the tenor of the conversation.

Rather than set to work on a great train manifesto, which would inevitably end up overreaching in some areas, while at the same time never quite be complete, I think the best way to approach the topic is the same way we experience trains: one trip at a time. I’ll periodically feature a train culture story that highlights a slice or two of the big picture, creating an ongoing string of rail related vignettes.

No, you can't have my crab

The first one out of the gate features the newest member of our family on her very first train and inaugural visit to New York City. (In case anyone is confused, the photos are from last week. We were safely tucked away at home while the hurricane roared through.) We weren’t sure how the first trip might go, so we brought along plenty of toys in the event we had an unhappy rider. It turns out our concerns were overblown. It would be an understatement to say it is substantially easier to regulate the mood of an infant when she is not strapped into a car seat. I’m generally the driver when the three of us are out together, so travel time means I have to all but disengage from them, in order to focus on the road. The train returns that time to me, which, these days, is a commodity I do not take for granted.

New York Penn Station

I would have been more than satisfied if the story ended there. The other passengers in the car seemed to take much interest in our daughter intently examining her new surroundings, before doing a number on a container of bananas. What I was not expecting was the subsequent turn of the conversation. The two younger men seated next to us remarked how opportunities like this were much more common in Europe, with its extensive rail networks. They wondered aloud if the US would ever be able to have something that remotely approached that. An older man across the aisle talked about how the rail system where he had grown up played a fundamental role in his childhood mobility and independence. For a very modest sum, he could take transit to anywhere he wanted to go. For 35 minutes, our compartment brought together a group of strangers who discovered a united belief in the value of this kind of service. That’s train culture.

I've arrived!

Scene Change

At the Corporate Eco Forum we run an entirely virtual office. Most days, each of us works from our respective home offices. On occasion though, it helps to escape from familiar environs to physically and mentally break away from routine activities. Such was the case this week, when the three of us based in and around NYC met for a full-day planning session to map out what we want to accomplish in the next year.

The first photo is my train station in South Orange, NJ. These tracks take me directly into New York Penn Station in about 35 minutes. Finding a place to live that was within walking distance of public transportation was one of the primary drivers that led to choosing our current apartment.

A morning breeze and burst of sunshine is always a good way to start a day.

We had an excellent view of Central Park from today’s office. We spend so much time working with companies to help them protect resources like clean air and water, so it’s good to get outside and remind ourselves why those things are so important.

After enjoying lunch together we got back to work. There’s so much we must do, and want to do, that it can seem like an insurmountable task for our small band. Fortunately, over sandwiches and coffee, and without the attention vortex of a glowing computer display, the big picture becomes a bit easier to grasp. The details will surely follow and there will be much difficult work ahead, but going to the top of the mountain and looking out over the valley gives the sense that anything can be accomplished as long as one knows where one wants to go.

Japan Reimagined

Brian Salsburg signs copies of Reimagining Japan

Kinokuniya Bookstore at Bryant Park in New York hosted a book signing with Brian Salsberg, one of the executive editors of Reimagining Japan: The Quest for a Future That Works. The book is a trove of insights from leading figures in business, media and academia on what has led to Japan’s economic malaise of the last two decades and how it could spur a new round of renaissance. Originally compiled prior to the Tohoku earthquake, tsunami and nuclear crisis, the book had to be recalled from the printer literally on the day of the disaster so that essays could be amended or recast to reflect the new turn of events.

Brian is a Tokyo-based consumer products and marketing consultant at McKinsey & Company. He and his colleagues were driven to take on this project after becoming frustrated at a growing chorus of negative voices and views about Japan’s predicament and what was claimed to be a lack of positive future prospects. The individuals selected for inclusion in the book write earnestly and do not pull punches. Like Brian, they have a strong desire to see Japan once again take up the reins of innovation and recover from both the immediate crisis and address long-term, structural needs.

I will reflect in detail on the book after reading, but will finish here by saying that Brian could not have been more gracious. I had arrived early, before a crowd had amassed, and proceeded to rope him into talking to me for the better part of a half hour. From both of us being Jersey boys to our abiding love for Japan’s seamless, nationwide train transit network, there was a lot to share. Considering all that Japan has to offer the world, I hope that this book will light more than a few fires, for all of our sakes.

To learn more about the book and read selected excerpts, view: http://www.mckinsey.com/en/Features/Reimagining_Japan.aspx

Tonkotsu Ramen 3

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So here we are at tonkotsu ramen attempt three. It’s been a fun journey thus far. Though I still haven’t produced a result I consider comparable to that found at my favorite slurping grounds, I’m learning much about making stock in the process. In this post I’ll skip over some of the intermediate steps to keep things compact, but you can see them all in the full photo set, as well as the previous tonkotsu posts Tonkotsu Ramen and Tonkotsu Ramen 2.

The first photo is our pork shoulder that has been seared and is about to go into the oven to braise.

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Finished chashu.

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One thing I did differently this time was to reduce the leftover braising liquid to a syrup consistency, creating tare (concentrated soup flavor) to later add to the stock.

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I also was able to get an early start and simmer the pork bones for several more hours, releasing more of the collagen and marrow.

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I used less liquid, particularly the soy sauce, to make the menma (seasoned bamboo shoots).

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Soaked and rinsed kikurage (wood ear mushroom).

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A big pile of green onion, fresh from the garden. Hope no one is going on a date later.

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Yes, that is a mound of chopped up back fat, and it’s all getting whisked into the stock for the final soup. Don’t judge.

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Staging of the toppings. This time I dropped the benishoga (pickled red ginger) and added nori (dried seaweed sheets).

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The soup after being strained and combined with final components and flavors.

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Finished bowl.

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Many thanks to my lab rats taste testers.

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