Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Originally, I had planned to shoot video for my second visit to Togoshi Ginza Shōtengai (戸越銀座商店街), but heavy rains during the week courtesy of Typhoon Lekima passing out at sea had other ideas. With a compressed schedule, I decided not to rush things and just enjoy the evening there. On our first visit, we saw an already very active Saturday afternoon street scene. In this second installment, Sunday evening twilight brings out an even bigger crowd, as the street is lit up along its entire 1.3 kilometers.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

In the first volume of The Tokyo Project, I encountered an entire little league team making a transfer at Iidabashi Station. This time, I find one in transit at the west end of Togoshi Ginza. Maybe this is my good luck omen.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

The first of the three segments, Shōeikai (商栄会), is quiet but active at the west end of the shopping street.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Tonight we are welcomed by a large cut-out of the Togoshi Ginza mascot, Togoshi Ginjirō (戸越 銀次郎), frequently called Gin-chan (銀ちゃん). However, I’m not sure exactly what this pose is supposed to be.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Indeed, the baseball team is my good luck charm. Here we come across Gin-chan himself, in the middle of what looks like it may be a commercial shoot for the shōtengai.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

The fumikiri allows the shōtengai to cross the Tōkyū Ikegami Line, and divides the Shōeikai from the Chūōgai (中央街) section.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

The street slopes down on either side of the fumikiri, so you can get a neat view out over the crowd while standing on the crest.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Just make sure you get out of the way when the trains come!

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

As during the day, the portion of Shōeikai closest to the fumikiri and all of Chūōgai are the most active parts of Togoshi Ginza.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

During the day, the arrangement of street side displays is one of the primary means for shops to advertise goods. At night, lighting comes in as an additional key factor.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Charcoal is fired up outside a restaurant, most likely a yakiniku or yakitori joint.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Torian is getting ready for its evening crowd.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Yakitori Ebisu operates out of a small shop front, but creates a wonderful space at the edge of the street with folding tables and chairs. Sometimes, a great third place doesn’t even require a building.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Very old school ramen and gyoza

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Gin-chan and some oden

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Shoppers chat with a baker.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Though there are still plenty of people that venture all the way to this end of Togoshi Ginza, the quiet Ginrokukai (銀六会) section begins the gradual transition of light into the night.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Grocers and restaurants are open, but some shops and services have closed for the evening.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

Gin-chan stands on a quiet corner near the end of Togoshi Ginza.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

A brisk walk returning to the subway takes me back through the middle of Chūōgai, where the nighttime scene is in full swing.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

I couldn’t think of a better way to end a day.

Togoshi Ginza Shotengai 戸越銀座商店街

This post is part of The Tokyo Project, Volume 2. Click here to go to the introduction and table of contents.

Additional volumes: Volume 1, Volume 3