My first dip into the Mensho group of ramen shops is not the original Menya Shono but the second shop, Ni-chōme Tsukemen GACHI (二丁目つけめん GACHI), a short walk east from Shinjuku Station in one of Tokyo’s drinkiest neighborhoods. As always, not only are the caloric needs of The Tokyo Project fueled by chewy wheat noodles...