Posts Tagged 'Mitsuwa'

Umaimono Food Fair Fall 2011

Another month has flown by, and we were back at the Edgewater Mitsuwa for the Umaimono Food Fair. The featured ramen guest was Nakamuraya, from Ebina in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan. Chef Sean Nakamura is also the force behind Ramen California in Torrance and just opened Ikemen, a tsukemen (dipping ramen) shop in Los Angeles.


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As we were a bit early out of the gate, we perused the other goodies up for offer while we waited for the ramen to open for orders. Here are some sort of griddle cakes made from rice dough, with red bean filling.

Konnyaku cake

Croquettes

Onigiri (rice balls)

Onigiri building station

Sweets

We tried a new tactic this time: getting in line early, before the window opens.

Good thing we did! This was the last day of the fair, and Nakamuraya posted a note saying there was only enough material left for 200 bowls.

For the fair, Nakamuraya served up an unadulterated shio (salt flavor) ramen.  The broth was remarkably deep, with layers of fish and seaweed flavor riding under the chicken bones and salt. The toppings were (for a mass event like this) generous and lovingly prepared. The juicy grilled chashu and seasoned hanjuku egg were better than I’ve had at many local places!

One of my first orders of business when I traveled to Japan for the first time was to experience true (not freeze dried brick form) ramen. The neophyte I was at the time, I initially gravitated to food which more closely resembled my western expectations. In this case, shio ramen came across like an exotic version of chicken noodle soup. I’d later get more adventurous and branch out to shoyu (soy sauce) ramen (the dominant flavor in Tokyo), tonkotsu (heavy, pork bone based broth), and other, less prevalent sub-styles and niches. No matter how far afield I go, though, I still enjoy a simple shio. Decadent, heavy flavored ramen packs punches with endless combinations of fats, flavors, and aromatics. In that realm, the creativity of the chef is the only limit to what’s possible. But I also think that working within a few constraints and being able to make a great, unassuming chicken noodle soup (in Japan or elsewhere) is a sign of a chef worth his salt.

Previous Mitsuwa festivals:

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2011

Umaimono Food Fair Spring 2011

Umaimono Food Fair Fall 2010

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2010

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2011

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What’s worth trekking to a grocery store an hour away from home, only to wait in a line for the better part of another hour? Not much. But ramen and other tasty offerings from Japan-based shops touring Mitsuwa Marketplace locations around the US for two weeks is one of them. Though there is much to see and eat, ramen seems to be the undisputed favorite among attendees at all of the various Mitsuwa food festivals, as evidenced by the line out the door.


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Finally, inside!

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Closer.

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Noodles ordered. Like last year’s Hokkaido Food Fair at the Edgewater, NJ location, the featured shop serves up miso ramen, a specialty of Japan’s northernmost island.

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Perusing goodies while we wait.

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Squid filled with rice.

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Fish and crabs.

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We get down to some slurping. Compared with last year’s miso ramen from Shingen, Kagetora has a similarly rich but not overwhelmingly heavy broth. Miso ramen can be hideously over-saturated with grease. Unlike Shingen, however, I felt there was less attention to the quality of the toppings. The chashu was a bit tough and not as flavorful as Shingen’s rolled and marinated pork belly. Everything seems “thrown on top” as opposed to carefully arranged, though given the immense crowd of waiting customers I can’t argue with sacrifice of aesthetics in the name of efficiency. Overall, still a very high quality bowl and a fun, infrequent experience around these parts.

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Mei was not as excited about the ramen.

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Previous Mitsuwa festivals:

Umaimono Food Fair Spring 2011

Umaimono Food Fair Fall 2010

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2010

Umaimono Food Fair Spring 2011

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Mitsuwa Marketplace is a small chain of Japanese grocery stores in the US. Most of its locations are in California, but there are also satellites in Chicago and one (near us) in Edgewater, NJ. With my recent ramen making escapades, we have been making the trek over on an increasingly frequent basis. What I like most about Mitsuwa are the periodic food themed festivals the store hosts. Some are focused on specific activities, such as tuna cutting competitions and rice pounding, others feature vendors and chefs on tour from specific regions of Japan (such as Hokkaido), while the recurring umaimono (yummy things) events are catchalls for whoever and whatever happens to be available.

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Last week’s Umaimono Food Fair featured ramen from Chef Kajiwara Ryuta of Tatsunoya, based out of Kurume in Japan’s Kyushu Region. Kyushu is the home of tonkotsu (cloudy pork bone based ramen). Kajiwara-san allegedly uses only pork bones and water for the soup base, without any additional flavorings like ginger or garlic.

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Noodles were super chewy and tasty, as is par for the course with tonkotsu.

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Though Kajiwara-san stepped out of the steamy kitchen for a momentary break, he was too quick for me to catch a photo. I settled for this banner instead.

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Takoyaki, grilled balls of batter filled with octopus and green onions. This is a specialty of Osaka and a favorite street food throughout Japan.

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Golden brown.

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Our finished takoyaki, topped with mayo, takoyaki sauce, and katsuobushi (dried fish flakes).


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