Posts Tagged 'ramen'

Recent Rundown 2

Happy new year! Other than coverage of the Mitsuwa Marketplace Umaimono Food Fair, it’s been radio silent since the first Recent Rundown in November. Here’s a quick catchup to get us off on the right foot for 2012.

Corporate Eco Forum

We put on a webinar for our member companies featuring Gavin Neath, Unilever’s Senior Vice President of Sustainability. Gavin spoke about the company’s efforts to address sustainability challenges across its global footprint, including its commitment on procurement of sustainable palm oil. I also started preparations for the first handful of webinars for 2012, which include presentations on the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and ISO 50001 certification. We hosted a virtual roundtable for a small group of our members to discuss the state of corporate sustainability reporting. We launched the application period for our 2012 CEF Member Challenge: Journey to Camp 41 in Brazil’s Amazon Rainforest. CEF will sponsor 5 winning employees from CEF member companies to attend an all-expenses paid sustainability leadership development program in Brazil’s Amazon Rainforest led by ecologist Thomas E. Lovejoy.

Compass Yoga

Our nonprofit is nearing completion of all its legal filings and approvals, thanks to the tireless efforts of founder and friend Christa. While we wait, we continue to explore opportunities for the organization to deliver yoga classes in therapeutic settings. We launched the Compass Yoga YouTube channel and produced some simple but helpful instructional videos as a holiday gift to the veteran community. I had fun getting familiar with the video capabilities of my Lumix LX5, but think we’ll want to get editing software that can render in high definition formats once we start looking to produce more sophisticated material. I also stepped into the role of treasurer for the board.

Net Impact Service Corps

After a bit of trouble getting things together, all of our volunteer consulting engagements are now off and running.

Languages

I’m coming up on inflection points with both Mandarin Chinese and Japanese study. I’m about to finish stages for both that will require some decisions about what goals I must set next and how each will be approached. I’ll go into detail in an upcoming post, once I’ve hit the milestones.

Tabata Noodle

Min, Mei and I made it out to a new ramen shop in Midtown on what was a very, very cold day (no better setup for enjoying a big bowl of noodle soup). Tabata Noodle tries to cover many bases, with an extensive selection of ramen varieties. Ramen shops are generally “I-shaped”. They specialize in one type of soup only (or a family of related broths) and develop deep expertise. We got the feeling Tabata spreads itself thin by trying to offer every type of ramen imaginable, based on tastings of shio (salt) and shoyu (soy sauce) bowls that, while not half bad, don’t have the depth and character that make a great slurping experience. I’ll definitely be back to try some of their other offerings, but Minca/Kambi, Ippudo and Hide-chan remain uncontested as my default destinations for transcendental noodling.

Writing

Last, but certainly not least, I’m happy to report that as the baby is finally sleeping through the night (or almost all night) on a relatively consistent basis, it’s my intention for 2012 to get back in the habit of writing more regularly on this blog. After becoming a new dad and starting a new job, I had to back burner interests and projects that didn’t fit into the time available. As we all learned how to work with our new schedule, I’ve gradually reinserted outside obligations, language study and reading. Writing was one of the things I had missed the most, but also proved to be the most challenging to bring back into the fold. It was not just a question of time, but of needing to relearn how to focus and quiet my mind long enough to put together thoughts that spanned more than 140 characters. The photo posts I published over the last handful of months helped me tread water, but I’m looking forward to chewing on things more thoroughly. I’ll experiment with using this rundown format as a way to report progress with ongoing projects or news that doesn’t quite merit a whole post.

Umaimono Food Fair Fall 2011

Another month has flown by, and we were back at the Edgewater Mitsuwa for the Umaimono Food Fair. The featured ramen guest was Nakamuraya, from Ebina in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan. Chef Sean Nakamura is also the force behind Ramen California in Torrance and just opened Ikemen, a tsukemen (dipping ramen) shop in Los Angeles.


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As we were a bit early out of the gate, we perused the other goodies up for offer while we waited for the ramen to open for orders. Here are some sort of griddle cakes made from rice dough, with red bean filling.

Konnyaku cake

Croquettes

Onigiri (rice balls)

Onigiri building station

Sweets

We tried a new tactic this time: getting in line early, before the window opens.

Good thing we did! This was the last day of the fair, and Nakamuraya posted a note saying there was only enough material left for 200 bowls.

For the fair, Nakamuraya served up an unadulterated shio (salt flavor) ramen.  The broth was remarkably deep, with layers of fish and seaweed flavor riding under the chicken bones and salt. The toppings were (for a mass event like this) generous and lovingly prepared. The juicy grilled chashu and seasoned hanjuku egg were better than I’ve had at many local places!

One of my first orders of business when I traveled to Japan for the first time was to experience true (not freeze dried brick form) ramen. The neophyte I was at the time, I initially gravitated to food which more closely resembled my western expectations. In this case, shio ramen came across like an exotic version of chicken noodle soup. I’d later get more adventurous and branch out to shoyu (soy sauce) ramen (the dominant flavor in Tokyo), tonkotsu (heavy, pork bone based broth), and other, less prevalent sub-styles and niches. No matter how far afield I go, though, I still enjoy a simple shio. Decadent, heavy flavored ramen packs punches with endless combinations of fats, flavors, and aromatics. In that realm, the creativity of the chef is the only limit to what’s possible. But I also think that working within a few constraints and being able to make a great, unassuming chicken noodle soup (in Japan or elsewhere) is a sign of a chef worth his salt.

Previous Mitsuwa festivals:

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2011

Umaimono Food Fair Spring 2011

Umaimono Food Fair Fall 2010

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2010

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2011

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What’s worth trekking to a grocery store an hour away from home, only to wait in a line for the better part of another hour? Not much. But ramen and other tasty offerings from Japan-based shops touring Mitsuwa Marketplace locations around the US for two weeks is one of them. Though there is much to see and eat, ramen seems to be the undisputed favorite among attendees at all of the various Mitsuwa food festivals, as evidenced by the line out the door.


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Finally, inside!

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Closer.

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Noodles ordered. Like last year’s Hokkaido Food Fair at the Edgewater, NJ location, the featured shop serves up miso ramen, a specialty of Japan’s northernmost island.

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Perusing goodies while we wait.

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Squid filled with rice.

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Fish and crabs.

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We get down to some slurping. Compared with last year’s miso ramen from Shingen, Kagetora has a similarly rich but not overwhelmingly heavy broth. Miso ramen can be hideously over-saturated with grease. Unlike Shingen, however, I felt there was less attention to the quality of the toppings. The chashu was a bit tough and not as flavorful as Shingen’s rolled and marinated pork belly. Everything seems “thrown on top” as opposed to carefully arranged, though given the immense crowd of waiting customers I can’t argue with sacrifice of aesthetics in the name of efficiency. Overall, still a very high quality bowl and a fun, infrequent experience around these parts.

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Mei was not as excited about the ramen.

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Previous Mitsuwa festivals:

Umaimono Food Fair Spring 2011

Umaimono Food Fair Fall 2010

Hokkaido Food Fair Fall 2010

Noodle Meditation

You might have noticed that things have again slowed down a bit at the blog. In August my in-laws returned home to China, so Min and I have moved fully into new parenthood, resuming all of the household matters like cooking and cleaning, as well as a raft of baby-related tasks. We think it’s important, though, not to treat these things like work, but to enjoy the opportunities to serve each other, as the time remaining after all of this is done and professional obligations are fulfilled is surprisingly little. I’ve also made commitments to the organization of the New York City / New Jersey Net Impact Service Corps and my very first nonprofit board membership with Compass Yoga, an organization conceived by my friend Christa that will bring the benefits of yoga practice to nontraditional and under-served communities. All of these are very meaningful to me, so I make great effort to protect the time and energy that goes into each. Unfortunately, this also means that my own professional and educational pursuits outside my formal job and personal hobbies currently reside lowest in the pecking order.

I’m certain that with time and creative scheduling these things will eventually weave back into the fold. I’ve already locked in 30 minutes a day each for Mandarin and Japanese study. I may not make much in the way of dramatic improvement, but can at least keep the wheels well-oiled. I’m also mindful to maintain small indulgences, squeezing in episode of anime over lunch or before sleeping, when there is time. I’ve also continued to push interesting things I find through the course of work or news scanning to my Twitter feed, and have noticed that the longer I’ve been active and more focused my posts, the greater the interactivity with other users. Until another significant shift in the balance of things (e.g., my daughter stops waking up four times a night), blogging may have to remain resigned to an as-able basis, will be more photo-centric and text-light, books will just have to wait a while before they are read, and social outings will be largely contingent on whether they can be snuggled into the couple of hours in between naptimes.

Trying to shoehorn everything into nooks just so can lead to frustration, especially when unexpected disruptions upend thoughtfully crafted plans. One thing being a parent has taught me already is to get flexible, as if your life depended on it (which it may). Plans may not happen according to the original schedule and sequencing, but can still happen if you think quickly.

Another effect of hyper-scheduling, whether you have children or not, is a loss of down time. I’ve become more acutely aware of the negative effect this has had on my energy level, especially in the last couple of months. My solution has been to take experiences that, in the past, might have been rather ordinary, but approach them with the expectation that they could be much more than what they appear. Opportunities to decompress and find nuggets of zen can pop up in unexpected places. I offer my ramen shop meditation, recently realized on a stop at Kambi in the East Village:

Contemplate the char on the gyoza. Too little would leave the dumpling plain and lacking its satisfying crunch. Too much would make it bitter and burnt. Deft application of heat results in a crispness and essence of carbon that can be equally appreciated on the bottom of a great slice of pizza.

I always like sitting at the bar, which gives the best view to the work that goes into one’s bowl. Despite having filled ramen orders likely numbering into the tens of thousands, the chef still uses a digital timer to boil the noodles. The precision is that important and shortcuts would never do. Also important is the shake at the end, to drain water out of the noodle basket. Every chef does this differently, some insisting that particular flares, flicks, and rolls are absolutely essential to the taste and texture of the final product.

Into the bowl first goes tare, the concentrated base, followed by soup stock, noodles and carefully arranged toppings of seasoned egg, green onion, wood ear mushrooms, roasted pork belly, nori, and sesame seeds. Layer by layer, a balanced ecosystem of flavors and textures comes into being. My own mind is noisy and messy. When I submerge my thoughts in the bowl I find quiet, if only for a little while, and that makes me happy. Itadakimasu.

Tonkotsu Ramen 3

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So here we are at tonkotsu ramen attempt three. It’s been a fun journey thus far. Though I still haven’t produced a result I consider comparable to that found at my favorite slurping grounds, I’m learning much about making stock in the process. In this post I’ll skip over some of the intermediate steps to keep things compact, but you can see them all in the full photo set, as well as the previous tonkotsu posts Tonkotsu Ramen and Tonkotsu Ramen 2.

The first photo is our pork shoulder that has been seared and is about to go into the oven to braise.

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Finished chashu.

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One thing I did differently this time was to reduce the leftover braising liquid to a syrup consistency, creating tare (concentrated soup flavor) to later add to the stock.

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I also was able to get an early start and simmer the pork bones for several more hours, releasing more of the collagen and marrow.

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I used less liquid, particularly the soy sauce, to make the menma (seasoned bamboo shoots).

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Soaked and rinsed kikurage (wood ear mushroom).

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A big pile of green onion, fresh from the garden. Hope no one is going on a date later.

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Yes, that is a mound of chopped up back fat, and it’s all getting whisked into the stock for the final soup. Don’t judge.

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Staging of the toppings. This time I dropped the benishoga (pickled red ginger) and added nori (dried seaweed sheets).

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The soup after being strained and combined with final components and flavors.

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Finished bowl.

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Many thanks to my lab rats taste testers.

Tonkotsu Ramen 2

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I came back for a second round in my quest to find out if it is possible to make restaurant level tonkotsu (pork bone broth) ramen at home. Now that I had been through the process once, my objective this time was to correct some of the mistakes I had made, as well try to start streamlining the operation somewhat. This is what happens when former operations strategy consultants are left unsupervised in the kitchen.

This time, I decided to forgo the hanjuku (half-cooked) egg and mayu (black garlic oil) toppings. While I like both, they add a bit of time and labor to the schedule and their removal does not dramatically affect the composition of the finished bowl.

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This time, I used a pork shoulder (picnic) slab that had a bit more fat than the previous. (In case anyone wasn’t clear, despite its deliciousness ramen is not the healthiest thing you could choose to eat.) But what made an even greater impact was switching from stove top simmering to placing the covered pot into the oven after searing the meat and adding the braising liquid. This  resulted in a far more tender and juicy chashu topping.

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I didn’t have time to go to Mitsuwa Marketplace to pickup menma, seasoned bamboo shoots. I made my own, instead.

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After sauteing in sesame oil, simmer bamboo in soy sauce, mirin and cooking sake.

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Finished menma. This turned out a bit more salty than I had wanted. Next time, I’ll use less soy sauce and drain the residual liquid off once the cooking is done.

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Cleaned pork leg bones and feet.

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The simmer begins.

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Added the same stock flavorings as last time, but wanted to do better on the execution.

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This time, the ginger slices and garlic head were actually caramelized, instead of carbonized.

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Looking for similar results with the onion.

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Success!

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A quick trip to Baba’s plot in our community garden, to pick fresh negi (green onion).

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Kikurage (wood ear mushroom) and negi make return appearances in the bowl. The two, particularly the green onion, are almost required tonkotsu ramen toppings.

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The toppings stage. Again, I will use the ground sesame seeds and benishoga (pickled ginger).

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The soup this time was a golden color, as opposed to the cappuccino hue of the first batch. I’m chalking this up to having not charred the flavorings beyond recognition.

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I wasn’t impressed by the Sun Noodle strands I used last time. This time I experimented with noodles from the Yamachan label. Yamachan’s noodles in the US are made by Nippon Trends Food Service in San Jose, CA. Nippon also happens to be the supplier to many top-level ramenya in the US, including Minca and Kambi, my goto ramen joints in New York. I’m sure all of those shops have their noodles made to custom order, the specifications of which are as heavily guarded as the Colonel’s secret recipe, but I was hoping some of the pedigree of those shops might rub off onto the store packaged variety.

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Similar soup additions as before. The only difference was that I sliced off the hard rind on the pork back fat before spinning in a food processor. The result was that the bits of fat actually emulsified with the soup, instead of floating on top.

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The final soup definitely had a different flavor this time. It was also creamier, thanks to the back fat, though still not to the level of high-test tonkotsu. I’ll have to block out the thoughts of how bad this stuff is for my cholesterol level and just go for the gusto in the future.

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The finished bowl. This time, I finished off the chashu with a bit of blowtorch administered char, as some restaurants do.

Overall, I was happy with the improvements, but I still have a way to go. I’d like the soup to have a richer flavor and texture. I’m ditching the pickled ginger. Though it is a very common tonkotsu ramen topping (often available at the counter/table to add at your own discretion), I think the sour taste is more of a distraction than anything else. The noodles were a step up, but still not the flavor and chewiness that I’m expecting when I tuck into a bowl. The quest continues…

Umaimono Food Fair Spring 2011

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Mitsuwa Marketplace is a small chain of Japanese grocery stores in the US. Most of its locations are in California, but there are also satellites in Chicago and one (near us) in Edgewater, NJ. With my recent ramen making escapades, we have been making the trek over on an increasingly frequent basis. What I like most about Mitsuwa are the periodic food themed festivals the store hosts. Some are focused on specific activities, such as tuna cutting competitions and rice pounding, others feature vendors and chefs on tour from specific regions of Japan (such as Hokkaido), while the recurring umaimono (yummy things) events are catchalls for whoever and whatever happens to be available.

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Last week’s Umaimono Food Fair featured ramen from Chef Kajiwara Ryuta of Tatsunoya, based out of Kurume in Japan’s Kyushu Region. Kyushu is the home of tonkotsu (cloudy pork bone based ramen). Kajiwara-san allegedly uses only pork bones and water for the soup base, without any additional flavorings like ginger or garlic.

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Noodles were super chewy and tasty, as is par for the course with tonkotsu.

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Though Kajiwara-san stepped out of the steamy kitchen for a momentary break, he was too quick for me to catch a photo. I settled for this banner instead.

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Takoyaki, grilled balls of batter filled with octopus and green onions. This is a specialty of Osaka and a favorite street food throughout Japan.

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Golden brown.

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Our finished takoyaki, topped with mayo, takoyaki sauce, and katsuobushi (dried fish flakes).

Tonkotsu Ramen

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Most people wouldn’t dare bother to make ramen at home, from scratch. It’s extremely labor intensive (this batch took me two days), requires years of practice just to get good at it, and at 500-800 yen (about $6-$10) for an average bowl around Tokyo it wouldn’t make much sense to take matters into one’s own hands. I’m not sure if it was the relatively low availability of ramen shops in the US, or just my general lack of common sense, but I decided to give it a shot. While not quite up to par with some of my favorite restaurants, the end result was pretty good for a first try. Here’s the story, in photos.

First photo above contains raw materials for chashu (simmered pork topping): pork shoulder, ginger, garlic, green onion, white peppercorns, cooking sake (rice wine), soy sauce, mirin (sweet rice wine).

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Seared pork shoulder.

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Pork in braising liquid.

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Finished chashu.

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Raw materials for mayu (black garlic oil): sesame oil, garlic.

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Grated garlic ready.

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Garlic definitely black now.

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Finished mayu.

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Soaking kikurage (wood ear mushrooms).

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Kikurage boiled, sliced and ready for eating.

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Pig leg bones and feet for making tonkotsu stock.

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Bones after quick boil for cleaning.

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Ready for the long simmer.

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Stock flavorings: onion, ginger, garlic. All to be caramelized and simmered with the bones.

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Cracked white pepper also for stock flavor.

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We have caramelization.

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Finished base stock after 6 hours. Will be strained and mixed with tare.

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Tare (concentrated broth flavoring): tahini, grated garlic, ground white pepper, salt, mirin, leftover braising liquid.

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Minced fat back and sesame seeds to add to finished broth. Pork fat rules.

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Topping all in rows: Kikurage, green onion, menma (seasoned bamboo), chashu, green onion sprouts, mayu for drizzling, sesame seeds for grinding, benishoga (pickled ginger).

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Not brave enough to make my own noodles yet, but these from Sun Noodle weren’t bad.

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Boiled noodles, added hanjuku (partially cooked) egg and combined all for the finished bowl. Phew!

Update and Restart

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Sun rising over Sagami Bay - Kamakura, Japan

This is it. Today’s the day. To those who have been nagging the last few months about not letting this and other projects die on the vine: you’re the best. The blog is back.

Some may remember that when I started writing I had recently found myself out of work and was gearing up for what turned out to be a very long job search. Though the original mission of this blog had been to cover a wide range of topics that I found interesting, it quickly and inadvertently ended up as a piece of my professional marketing collateral, with heavy emphasis on environmental sustainability, my chosen field. While that certainly won’t disappear, I hope this can be an inflection point where I can return to the bigger picture like a fish in water was meant to encompass.

So just where have I been?

Mei

Well, first, our baby girl Mei was born on Valentine’s Day. She is very cute and sweet, though seems to derive a worryingly large amount of amusement from waking her parents up at 3:00 in the morning.

The office

The next morning, I received an offer to work full-time with Corporate Eco Forum, the organization I had been helping as a part-time researcher during my job search. It is difficult to express just how great this job is in a small space, but I will do my best to deliver regular doses over time as my role and experiences grow. Not only have I been able to do exactly what I had wanted from a professional standpoint, I work either from home or wherever I can plunk down my laptop and find a wifi signal. This time a year ago, I had just lost what I thought would have been a great job at Deloitte in the final interview round, and was not thrilled about going into the summer job search doldrums. Last week I was part of two CEF videoconferences, one with about 15 high-level corporate sustainability officers and another with CIOs and IT professionals from some of the largest and most influential global companies. What a difference time makes.

With the job search now concluded and life generally getting back to an even keel, I am very excited to turn (or return) to other pursuits and share them via words and images. Here is both a summary of what’s happened in the last few months, as well as a preview of the kinds of things I’d like to cover in future posts:

Net Impact Service Corps volunteer orientation

After being part of two Net Impact Service Corps volunteer projects, with nonprofits Public Allies NY and E+Co, I graduated to become one of the Service Corps managers. I am currently advising one volunteer team for this spring’s session, and will fully move into the role as we begin planning for the next session in the fall.

Asia Society panel discussion on China urban development

After attending several very impressive presentations I became a member of the Asia Society, which just happens to have its global headquarters in New York. It has been a great way to learn more about many of the geopolitical and cultural aspects that interest me, as well as meet others who are passionate about the future of the region and its relationship with the west.

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Something old and something new, in Kong Kong

My study of Chinese culture and language has resumed, thanks in no small part to the presence of my wife Min’s parents, who are staying with us for the first six months after Mei’s birth. At first I had to stick to my block Chinese (though the lack of verb conjugation in Mandarin is a blessing) and ask them to slow down frequently. Recently, I have had (very basic) conversations with my mom about centrally planned economies and gendercide in China and India. It seems practice really does help.

Along with my time spent at Asia Society, these conversations have highlighted one very interesting component of the Chinese perspective on the way things work. China has played a dominant role in world trade and development for the last several thousand years. They see the last few centuries of western control as a brief window by comparison. China’s current ascension is not so much a rise as a return. Westerners doing business with or living in China will undoubtedly have this pointed out to them on an increasingly frequent basis.

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Shibuya, Tokyo - ground zero for all things young and hip

Hopping over the East China Sea I land in Japan, which has been on a lot of minds lately, but unfortunately for very tragic and disruptive reasons.

Long before the Tohoku earthquake, I had cultivated a deep and ever growing fascination (obsession?) with Japanese pop culture. At first I had traced this back to discovering anime as a college student. On further review, I realized it extends much farther back in time. During adolescence it was Nintendo. As a child it was Atari 2600 and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. Even before that, it was Transformers and Voltron. Of course, I knew little or nothing about the Japanese origin of these things at the time, but in retrospect it’s little wonder that I slipped right into adult anime, manga (comic books) and literature, as if these were familiar things I had merely forgotten about. What began as an interest in just pop culture gradually broadened into wider Japanese culture, business, politics and life in general.

Living in Tokyo for several months in 2008 as part of my MBA program was the next step on this continuum. I had been a big fan of (and continue to watch) what is referred to as “slice of life” anime, which depicts relatively realistic experiences of life in Japan, so many things seemed very normal, despite never having had to do them before. I have not quite gotten bowing protocol down yet, but I never forgot to take my shoes off and always apologized to other elevator riders if I was getting off on a floor before theirs (thus slowing the trip and inconveniencing them). This awareness of others around you and placing the needs of the collective above your own was brought into stark relief during the aftermath of the earthquake, tsunami and Fukushima nuclear disaster, in the selfless efforts of so many to help their neighbors (particularly by those who had lost so much themselves).

Hideo Furukawa chats with fan at Japan Society launch of Monkey Business

The Japan Society was among several organizations hosting the US launch of the first English edition of Monkey Business, a Japanese literary journal. Acquaintance and Oberlin College alumnus Roland Kelts is one of its editorial advisers and manages the relationship with A Public Space, the journal’s US publisher. It features English translations of very interesting work by new writers, an interview with contemporary author Haruki Murakami, and even some manga. Definitely pick one up if this interests you (I’m not getting paid for the endorsement!)

In the past year, I have gotten close to my goal of reading all the writing of Murakami, after which I plan to move on to other well-know writers like Mishima and Kawabata, and new ones like Hideo Furukawa (pictured above).

Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind - though translated to English, still flopped (read from right to left)

I have long had the idea that environmental sustainability is in large part driven by our personal behavior and consumptive habits (companies don’t manufacture and sell products we don’t want, usually). We can have a large impact as individuals by what products or services we buy, and sometimes by buying less of them, or using them in better ways. Because culture is a large influencer of behavior, I think that to ignore its role in shaping our attitude about our relationship to the Earth is to miss a large part of the solution to the current state of affairs. First things first, though, would be observing, defining and understanding the relationships between culture and consumption, to the extent possible.

Japan is my entry point. The finite space and resources have shaped a culture that largely values efficiency and a “waste not, want not” attitude. Awareness of the effect of human activity on the environment, specifically, is prevalent enough that it even finds its way into anime and manga, such as Hayao Miyazaki’s Princess Mononoke and Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind. The film version of Nausicaä was endorsed by the World Wide Fund for Nature when it was released in 1984. As a fun way to kickoff what could very well turnout to be a lifelong project, I am planning to read the entire manga version of the story, then review existing analysis about the manga and film (of which there is a surprisingly large amount, even just the English material). My hope is to find out if there is any more to say about the messages in the story, particularly as it relates to real-world attitudes about conservation and stewardship.

Homemade tonkotsu ramen

Lastly, rounding out my Japan love fest and this blog post, we have ramen. It’s the Japanese interpretation of Chinese noodles in soup. It could also be described as the universe in a bowl. I’m not talking about the $0.10 a brick variety that got many through the college years (though it has its place in the scheme of ramen-dom). The real thing is, when done well, an intense assault of flavors and textures. Salty, porky, chickeny, fishy soup. Chewy noodles, crunchy fungi, pork roasted to perfection and seasoned eggs cooked gently until just congealed. Hey, stop drooling on your keyboard! Wait, that’s me.

My pal Christa and I have made the rounds of many of the ramenya in New York. Most make an admirable try, but an elite few really dazzle and would clearly hold their own even in the hypercompetitive Tokyo scene.

I’ve recently escalated my noodling to more serious territory, first making a simple shio (clear chicken broth) ramen, and then the holy-grail of tonkotsu (cloudy pork broth) ramen in my home kitchen. The first attempt at tonkotsu is pictured above. One third of the freezer is now occupied with pork leg bones for subsequent rounds. This will get dangerous. Many thanks to the rameniac and Keizo for inspiring me to take my ramen infatuation to unhealthy levels.

Is it time to eat yet?


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